Thursday, May 22, 2014

Istanbul is NOT Constantinople

Merhaba!
     Istanbul. We all know the name, we all know the stories. The legendary city that straddles two continents, has been the host of numerous cultures, and displays modern apartment buildings next to ancient castles. Founded in 660 BC under the name Byzantium, it transitioned to Constantinople in 330 AD, after which it served as the capital city of four empires; the Roman (330-395), the Byzantine (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin (1204-1261), and the Ottoman(1453-1922). When the Ottomans conquered the city in 1453, the name was changed to Istanbul, which has remained to this day. Everyone sees a different picture when they hear the name Istanbul- Islam, history, culture, crowded, etc.- but one thing is sure; Istanbul is much more complicated than any person can truly understand.
     My Turkish school plans a trip every year for the eleventh grade classes to Istanbul for visiting universities. The teachers who plan it are incredibly cool and add sightseeing and free time into it as well. I did not hesitate before paying the three hundred and third-five Turkish lira for the trip, for how can I proudly leave this country if I've not seen Istanbul? It was a short and exhausting weekend. A twelve hour bus ride there and back, touring all day, every day, and staying up and talking to my friends every night. Every time we boarded the bus I took the free time to sleep, and as a result I have a very attractive picture of my fantastic new double chin (my hair looks great in the picture though!).
     I will study in the U.S. for university, but visiting the schools in Istanbul was a good opportunity for me to think about spending a semester there in college. We visited Bogaziçi, Koç, Yeditepe, Bahçesehir, and Istanbul Technical University. All five are among the best in Istanbul.
     To save y'all from a second-to-second explanation of my trip, I am posting pictures and descriptions about the famous sights we visited. Istanbul is not for everyone. It's big, sprawling, confusing, and has absolutely horrid traffic. The culture, however, is enough to make the other aspects unimportant for some people. Before visiting, you can truly have no idea how you will react to it, and three days is not nearly enough. I will be back some day!
The Blue Mosque (in Turkish Sultanahment Camii) is the largest mosque in Turkey. No other mosque is permitted to have six spires, for the honor is reserved for the Blue Mosque. It was built between 1609 and 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I.  The english name derives from the blue tiled walls inside the mosque. The Turkish name is in respect for Sultan Ahment, and located in the mosque is his tomb. With the arching domes and multiple chandeliers, the mosque is filled with light... and tourists.

The Hagia Sofia is a sacred center for both Christians and Muslims alike. A Greek Orthodox patriarchal basilica from 537 to 1453, in 1453 it was converted into an imperial mosque. In 1935, after Turkey became secular, the building was turned into a museum in an attempt to make it equal for both religions.


If you were watching the news last summer you are aware of the protests that took place across Turkey. The park behind me in the picture above was where the protests started when a group of police officers attacked protesters protesting the plans to cut down the park for a mall. As the news hit the streets, the protests grew and grew, and eventually encompassed the entire nation, and kicked off an anti-Erdogan (the prime minister) sentiment that has increased as time passes. Being a few months away from my departure to Turkey, I followed the news closely, and being in the 'scene of the crime' was on my bucket list. In front of the park is Taksim Square, famous for its shops, clubs, and old red tram. In both the square and the park there are tiles missing, lamps broken, smoke marks, and missing glass panels from the barriers. It was difficult to imagine the square filled with tear gas and water hoses, but reminders lie all around if you look for them.


The Bosphorus bridge connects the European and Asian continents. The simple, sleek style makes for beautiful pictures, and attracts the attention of thousands of visitors.

The boat tour of the Bosphorus that we took mere hours before our departure to Aydin.  It was one of the only periods of time during the weekend that it was not raining cats and dogs. We were lucky!

The Basilica Cistern is located near the Hagia Sofia. It is a vast, underground cistern, hosting rows upon rows of columns. In the back northwest corner lie two column bases carved into the face of Medusa. One is placed upside down, the other on its side. Visitors walk upon a stone walkway placed above water and fish. When filled with tourists the cistern is spectacular, but if alone I imagine it would be spine crawlingly creepy. 


As I mentioned above, Taksim Square is famous for the old tram that runs along the length of Istiklal Boulevard. It is actually quite dangerous, as pedestrians wander across the train tracks regularly and the din of the crowd can often cover up the sound of the tram. 

The Bosphorus bridge at night. The colors change every few minutes!

Inside the Blue Mosque. It was beautiful inside, the walls covered in blue tiles, the chandeliers hanging throughout the building, but it was crowded with tourists, which made it feel more like a museum than a holy sight. 
Topkapi Palace was the primary palace of the Ottoman Empire between 1465-1856.  At its peak the palace housed 4,000 people. It is now a museum, and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Being an incredibly strong empire, the Ottomans had no need to show their strength through buildings, with the result that Topkapi is rather simple. The rooms are filled with important relics of the period, including one of the world's largest diamonds, and Muhammed's cloak and sword. 

Dolmabahçe Palace served as the main location of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1922.  It is located in the Besiktas section of Istanbul on the European side of the Bosphorus. As the Ottoman Empire's power was decreasing, the rulers felt the need to show their strength to the world by building a palace in the grand style of Europe. Completed in nine years, the palace is complete with a harem, a gate for boats, and a large hall for guests. In the hall hangs a chandelier that has so many pieces, that it takes two months to clean. As women were not allowed in any public political affairs at the time, an upstairs section was walled off, and fitted with grated windows for them to watch through. It was in this palace in 1938 that Atatürk died, and we were led through his bedroom by our tour guide. 

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