Monday, May 26, 2014

Humanity-it's everywhere

Merhaba!
     If this year has taught me anything, it is that no matter what a person's beliefs are, no matter which political party they support, generosity and kindness can come from anyone. I have been on the receiving end of an unbelievable amount of kindness this year, and I look around everyday in awe that I am able to experience it.
     Last weekend my German teacher took my to a small village outside of Aydin to eat a pre-wedding lunch. Twelve years ago she taught in the village, and the groom was the school's principal's son. The food we ate is explained below, I will just say now that it was DELICIOUS. I love food of all kinds, and Turkish food made in the villages is to die for. We unfortunately were forced to choose between the food and the celebrations later that night, and we decided to eat the food. My teacher's reasoning was that I had seen dancing before, but the food was a one time opportunity. I happily agreed!
     During the meal my teacher recognized one of her old students, and she began to speak with him and his family. When they found out I was an American exchange student they insisted on dressing me up in the pants and the head scarf that the middle aged and older women wear for comfort. Before we left they gave me the clothes as a gift as a way to remember them. Below are some of the pictures we took. The well water shown was beautiful and clear, and it made me miss the well we had when I was little. I was also able to hold a ten day old puppy who fell asleep against my chest. It's little paws, the eyes that had still not opened, and the little snuffing sounds it made melted my heart straight through. After the puppy I visited an old lady in the magnificent garden she had planted by hand and spoke to her about her life. She came from Austria during the second world war, and has lived in Turkey since then. Turkey is like the U.S.A. of Europe and the Middle East. There are people from almost every country who have moved here, or whose family moved here, and who now call themselves Turkish. With their pattern of passivity in wars, Turkey has continuously been a safe haven for those escaping dangerous countries. The interesting thing is that no one asks Turkish people where their families are from. If they say they are Turkish, they are Turkish. But when I say that I am American, one of the first questions I get is "where is your family from?" Due to the widely known fact that America is the mixing pot of cultures, simply saying I am American is not enough. This topic has no connection with my day in the village, but I thought it was interesting.
     The people I met in the village were some of the nicest I have experienced. I hope I can visit them again some day, but if not, they will always have a place in my heart, and my memory.
Xoxo, Isabel
Pumping water


The food I ate in the village;
Yuvarlama - meat and flour rolled into ovals and cooked. A tomato based broth is poured over it, and yogurt/ yogurt with garlic is served with it.,
Soup - A tomato based broth (again) with thin, dough pieces in it.
Semolina helva - A desert made from semolina. It is slightly grainy, but sweet.
  Keskek - Wheat and sometimes chicken mixed together into a mush type mixture. While slightly odd at first, it is delicious. Usually served with rice.
 Kuru fasulye - White beans and vegetables in a tomato based brother.
 Meat - Lamb
 Kizartma - Potatoes and vegetables baked in olive oil.

A ten day old puppy

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Istanbul is NOT Constantinople

Merhaba!
     Istanbul. We all know the name, we all know the stories. The legendary city that straddles two continents, has been the host of numerous cultures, and displays modern apartment buildings next to ancient castles. Founded in 660 BC under the name Byzantium, it transitioned to Constantinople in 330 AD, after which it served as the capital city of four empires; the Roman (330-395), the Byzantine (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin (1204-1261), and the Ottoman(1453-1922). When the Ottomans conquered the city in 1453, the name was changed to Istanbul, which has remained to this day. Everyone sees a different picture when they hear the name Istanbul- Islam, history, culture, crowded, etc.- but one thing is sure; Istanbul is much more complicated than any person can truly understand.
     My Turkish school plans a trip every year for the eleventh grade classes to Istanbul for visiting universities. The teachers who plan it are incredibly cool and add sightseeing and free time into it as well. I did not hesitate before paying the three hundred and third-five Turkish lira for the trip, for how can I proudly leave this country if I've not seen Istanbul? It was a short and exhausting weekend. A twelve hour bus ride there and back, touring all day, every day, and staying up and talking to my friends every night. Every time we boarded the bus I took the free time to sleep, and as a result I have a very attractive picture of my fantastic new double chin (my hair looks great in the picture though!).
     I will study in the U.S. for university, but visiting the schools in Istanbul was a good opportunity for me to think about spending a semester there in college. We visited Bogaziçi, Koç, Yeditepe, Bahçesehir, and Istanbul Technical University. All five are among the best in Istanbul.
     To save y'all from a second-to-second explanation of my trip, I am posting pictures and descriptions about the famous sights we visited. Istanbul is not for everyone. It's big, sprawling, confusing, and has absolutely horrid traffic. The culture, however, is enough to make the other aspects unimportant for some people. Before visiting, you can truly have no idea how you will react to it, and three days is not nearly enough. I will be back some day!
The Blue Mosque (in Turkish Sultanahment Camii) is the largest mosque in Turkey. No other mosque is permitted to have six spires, for the honor is reserved for the Blue Mosque. It was built between 1609 and 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I.  The english name derives from the blue tiled walls inside the mosque. The Turkish name is in respect for Sultan Ahment, and located in the mosque is his tomb. With the arching domes and multiple chandeliers, the mosque is filled with light... and tourists.

The Hagia Sofia is a sacred center for both Christians and Muslims alike. A Greek Orthodox patriarchal basilica from 537 to 1453, in 1453 it was converted into an imperial mosque. In 1935, after Turkey became secular, the building was turned into a museum in an attempt to make it equal for both religions.


If you were watching the news last summer you are aware of the protests that took place across Turkey. The park behind me in the picture above was where the protests started when a group of police officers attacked protesters protesting the plans to cut down the park for a mall. As the news hit the streets, the protests grew and grew, and eventually encompassed the entire nation, and kicked off an anti-Erdogan (the prime minister) sentiment that has increased as time passes. Being a few months away from my departure to Turkey, I followed the news closely, and being in the 'scene of the crime' was on my bucket list. In front of the park is Taksim Square, famous for its shops, clubs, and old red tram. In both the square and the park there are tiles missing, lamps broken, smoke marks, and missing glass panels from the barriers. It was difficult to imagine the square filled with tear gas and water hoses, but reminders lie all around if you look for them.


The Bosphorus bridge connects the European and Asian continents. The simple, sleek style makes for beautiful pictures, and attracts the attention of thousands of visitors.

The boat tour of the Bosphorus that we took mere hours before our departure to Aydin.  It was one of the only periods of time during the weekend that it was not raining cats and dogs. We were lucky!

The Basilica Cistern is located near the Hagia Sofia. It is a vast, underground cistern, hosting rows upon rows of columns. In the back northwest corner lie two column bases carved into the face of Medusa. One is placed upside down, the other on its side. Visitors walk upon a stone walkway placed above water and fish. When filled with tourists the cistern is spectacular, but if alone I imagine it would be spine crawlingly creepy. 


As I mentioned above, Taksim Square is famous for the old tram that runs along the length of Istiklal Boulevard. It is actually quite dangerous, as pedestrians wander across the train tracks regularly and the din of the crowd can often cover up the sound of the tram. 

The Bosphorus bridge at night. The colors change every few minutes!

Inside the Blue Mosque. It was beautiful inside, the walls covered in blue tiles, the chandeliers hanging throughout the building, but it was crowded with tourists, which made it feel more like a museum than a holy sight. 
Topkapi Palace was the primary palace of the Ottoman Empire between 1465-1856.  At its peak the palace housed 4,000 people. It is now a museum, and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Being an incredibly strong empire, the Ottomans had no need to show their strength through buildings, with the result that Topkapi is rather simple. The rooms are filled with important relics of the period, including one of the world's largest diamonds, and Muhammed's cloak and sword. 

Dolmabahçe Palace served as the main location of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1922.  It is located in the Besiktas section of Istanbul on the European side of the Bosphorus. As the Ottoman Empire's power was decreasing, the rulers felt the need to show their strength to the world by building a palace in the grand style of Europe. Completed in nine years, the palace is complete with a harem, a gate for boats, and a large hall for guests. In the hall hangs a chandelier that has so many pieces, that it takes two months to clean. As women were not allowed in any public political affairs at the time, an upstairs section was walled off, and fitted with grated windows for them to watch through. It was in this palace in 1938 that Atatürk died, and we were led through his bedroom by our tour guide.